Adventurer 3 Installation
Caution
You should be familiar with installing and configuring Klipper before attempting this. You are solely responsible for any damage caused by following any part of this guide.
Warning
This guide will soon be deprecated as this install method is considered to be in an ALPHA testing state. Public testing for the BETA install method will be beginning soon, join our Discord to keep up to date with announcements.
Warning
CHECK your microcontroller brand before attempting this. It will only work on STM32, HK32, and GD32 MCUs. Nation N32 MCUs are not supported by this guide as they need to be programmed via a slightly different method.
- very basic soldering skills
- insulated wire, multiple colors preferred
- a soldering iron with temperature control
- solder (preferably SnPb or SnBi solder, SnAg is harder to work with)
- A Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W with SD card (at least 4GB, 16GB or larger recommended)
- some wire (silicone preferred for soldered connections as the insulation won't melt)
- 4x M2.5x4 screws
- 4x M2.5 threaded heat-set inserts
- Raspberry Pi Zero mount from the STLs folder
- Extruder tensioning spacer from the STLs folder
- paste or liquid flux
- cotton swabs and or cotton pads (something to clean the board with)
- alcohol or PCB cleaner
Step 0: Print the Pi mount and (optional) extruder spacer from the STLs folder. The Pi mount is designed to be printable on Adventurer 3 without support material. PLA may not work due to the temperature of the electronics enclosure, HTPLA or higher glass transition filament (PETG, ABS, etc.) recommended. Insert the 4 threaded inserts into the Pi mount using your soldering iron with a conical tip or threaded insert tip.
Optional Step: With the printer unplugged, use a hex 2.5 bit or Allen key to remove the tensioning arm from the extruder assembly behind the filament hatch. Be careful not to drop the spring into the housing of the printer, it's much less work if you don't have to fish the spring out. Install the spacer onto the spring retention peg. Reassemble the extruder. Video demonstration here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVRpLRKePUk This will improve the maximum flow rate significantly, and coupled with the increased extruder motor torque in Klipper, massively reduces or eliminates the clicking extruder issue.
Step 1: Unplug your printer. Carefully turn the printer upside down on a soft surface so as to not scratch the top acrylic panel. Remove the 4 screws securing the metal electronics cover. You may choose to remove the board from the printer and place it on your work surface to make soldering easier. If you do, you'll need to remove the glue covering the MHF micro-coax Wi-Fi antenna cable, unplug all connectors, and remove all 4 screws securing the board.
Step 2: Locate the pads in the diagram (Wiring-diagram.png), apply flux, then tin the pads.
Step 3: Solder your wires to the pads as indicated. Make sure all wires are long enough to connect to your Pi, about 10cm or 4in. Strip both ends before soldering to make your life easier later (about 2mm on each end) You should connect the following to your printer's mainboard:
- one wire to TX (white)
- one wire to RX (green)
- one wire to MCU RST (orange)
- one wire to DFU (purple)
- one wire to VCC (red)
- one wire to GND (black)
- one short wire bridge CS (blue)
Step 0: Download the latest Raspberry Pi Imager from https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/ Under "Raspberry Pi Device" select "Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W". For Operating System, go to "Raspberry Pi OS (other)" and select "Raspberry Pi OS (Legacy, 32-bit) Lite", choose your SD card, then hit next. Click "Edit Settings" Set your username and password, select your Wireless LAN country, and set your locale. Under "Services" enable SSH and select "Use password authentication" (unless you know what you're doing). Save, then click "Yes" and "Yes" again when it asks if you're sure you want to continue. Once done writing the SD, remove it and insert it into the Pi.
Step 1: If you removed the mainboard to solder your wires, reinstall it now, but leave out the 2 screws closest to the power socket. If you left the board in, go ahead and remove those 2 screws now. Place your Pi mounting bracket on the mainboard with the two legs aligned with the holes in the mainboard. Insert the two mainboard screws through the bracket and mainboard to secure them both. Using the 4 M2.5 screws, secure the Pi to the mounting bracket.
Step 2: Time to test! Plug the printer back into power, and flip the switch on. The printer should not boot up. Screen should remain black, mainboard LEDs should come on, the Pi should power up, and nothing else should happen. If the printer does boot normally into the stock firmware, make sure RST is bridged to GND and try again. Don't work inside the printer with the power cable connected. If all works, now is the time to clean the flux off the board with your cleaner and cotton swabs.
Step 1: SSH into your Pi. You'll need to find the IP in your router's config page or app.
Run the following commands:
echo -e "enable_uart=1\ndtoverlay=miniuart-bt\ndtoverlay=disable-bt" | sudo tee -a /boot/config.txt
sudo sed -e s/\ console=serial0,115200//g -i /boot/cmdline.txt
sudo apt update && sudo apt install stm32flash git -y
cd ~ && git clone https://github.com/dw-0/kiauh.git
git clone https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging.git
git clone https://github.com/synthread/Klippventurer.git
ln -s ~/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging/Configuration printer_data/config/KAMP
./kiauh/kiauh.sh
Once at the KIAUH menu, install 1) Klipper, 2) Moonraker, and 4) Fluidd. You can also install Mobileraker for mobile push notifications via the Mobileraker app. Exit KIAUH with B then Q and do
cp -r ~/Klippventurer/config/ ~/printer_data/
wget -O ~/klipper/.config https://raw.githubusercontent.com/synthread/Klippventurer-Installer/main/configs/adventurer3.config
cd ~/klipper && make menuconfig
press Q followed by Y. Now
make
and if the build completes without errors,
sudo reboot
Wait for the Pi to reboot, SSH back in and do
sudo stm32flash -w ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin -R -i -18,23,18:-18,-23,18 /dev/ttyAMA0
You should now be able to access the Fluidd interface from your browser or Orca Slicer. If you don't get an error (warnings are fine), go ahead and unplug the printer and reinstall the bottom cover. You may need to try restarting the firmware. Set it back right-side-up and power it on. Reconnect to Fluidd, cross your fingers, and hit the home button!